Scotland: Hiking in the Highlands

For this trip, we were lucky to be able to travel with the incredible Scottish guide, author, photographer and storyteller Bryan Millar Walker. Bryan leads tours and experiences through his very own Distinct Scotland (distinct.scot), and I would highly recommend this option if you'd like a guide along the way. Here are some of the highlights of our journey.

Edinburgh – A City of History and Magic

Our journey began in Edinburgh, a city right out of a fairytale. Parts of it almost make you feel like you have traveled back in time. 

One of our first stops was Edinburgh Castle, perched on Castle Rock and offering panoramic views of the city. Inside, we explored the history of Scotland’s kings and queens, where you can also see the Crown Jewels of Scotland. From there, we strolled down Victoria Street, a colorful and winding road that served as the inspiration for Diagon Alley in Harry Potter. And nearby is Greyfriars Kirkyard, where J.K. Rowling is said to have found inspiration for many character names. If you’re a fan of the books, take a walk through and check out some of the names. 

For a different view of the city, we hiked up Arthur’s Seat. This is actually a dormant volcano that rewarded us with my favorite views of Edinburgh’s skyline. That evening, tasted some traditional haggis at Makars Gourmet Mash Bar and wrapped up the night with a whisky tasting at the Scotch Whisky Experience.

Glencoe – Where the Highlands Begin

The next morning we made our way northwest towards Glencoe and the famous “Three Sisters” mountain rage. The drive itself was an experience - through rolling green hills, dramatic cliffs, and misty lochs. Glencoe is known for its wild beauty, and it did not disappoint.

We stopped at Kilchurn Castle, an enchanting ruin on the edge of Loch Awe. Further along, we saw Buachaille Etive Mòr, a towering mountain standing over the entrance to Glencoe. The drive through Glen Etive was one of my favorite roads of the trip (it’s no wonder this area was used as a location for Skyfall).

One of the highlights of this leg of the trip was visiting the Glenfinnan Viaduct, made famous by the Harry Potter films. We timed our visit perfectly to see the Jacobite Steam Train (aka the Hogwarts Express) chugging across the bridge. Before leaving Glencoe, we hiked through Glen Nevis to Steall Falls, a spectacular waterfall nestled in a gorge surrounded by mountains.

The Isle of Skye – A Place Straight Out of a Fairy Tale

That night we reached the Isle of Skye, which we planned to explore the following day. If there’s one place in Scotland that truly feels like stepping into another world, it’s the Isle of Skye, and it quickly became one of the most breathtaking places I’ve ever visited.

Our first stop was the iconic Old Man of Storr, a towering rock formation that you might recognize from The Witcher. The hike up was steep at times but manageable and reaching the top and gazing over the otherworldly landscape was worth it. From there, we visited Mealt Falls, an incredible waterfall that plunges off the cliffs into the ocean, right next to Kilt Rock, a sea cliff said to resemble a kilt’s pleats.

We then ventured into the Quiraing, a surreal landscape of rolling green hills, jagged peaks, and misty valleys. Every step on this hike offered a new, breathtaking view. Afterward, we made a quick stop at the Sligachan Old Bridge, where legend says that if you dip your face into the river’s waters, you’ll be granted eternal beauty.

No trip to Skye would be complete without visiting Neist Point Lighthouse, one of the most dramatic and scenic coastal views on the island. As the sun set, the cliffs and waves below created a mesmerizing scene. Before leaving Skye, we couldn’t resist a visit to the Fairy Pools—a series of crystal-clear, cascading waterfalls flowing down from the Cuillin Mountains. The water was freezing, but I couldn’t pass up the chance to take a quick dip!

The Highlands – Hidden Gems and Coastal Beauty

After Skye we made our way up to Inverness for the night before heading deeper into the Highlands. The next morning we soon found ourselves surrounded by some of the most remote and untouched landscapes of the trip.

One of the most memorable hikes of the trip was to Wailing Widow Falls, a secluded waterfall tucked away in a valley. The short but steep climb led us to a view that felt completely untouched. We then hiked Stac Pollaidh, a relatively short but challenging hike that rewarded us with 360-degree views over the Highlands—one of the most breathtaking sights of the trip.

Along the way, we explored the ruins of Ardvreck Castle, an eerie yet beautiful structure perched on the shores of Loch Assynt. From there continued on to Clachtoll Beach, a hidden gem with stunningly light blue water and incredible views of Suilven, one of Scotland’s most striking mountains. It was the perfect spot to take in the beauty of the Highlands.

A Final Farewell in Edinburgh

As our journey came to an end, we returned to Edinburgh for one last day of exploring. We wandered through Dean Village, a picturesque neighborhood along the Water of Leith and visited the National Museum of Scotland for a deep dive into Scottish history. 

This trip was just incredible and I feel like I barely scratched the surface of this beautiful county. I can’t wait to explore more on my next visit.

5-Day Scotland Itinerary

Day 1: Edinburgh – History, Magic, and Culture

  • Visit Edinburgh Castle for stunning city views and a deep dive into Scotland’s royal history.

  • Stroll down Victoria Street, the inspiration for Diagon Alley, and explore its charming shops.

  • Wander through Greyfriars Kirkyard, where J.K. Rowling found inspiration for Harry Potter character names.

  • Hike Arthur’s Seat for breathtaking panoramic views of Edinburgh.

Day 2: Glencoe – The Gateway to the Highlands

  • Stop at Kilchurn Castle, a picturesque ruin on the shores of Loch Awe.

  • Drive through Glen Etive.

  • Marvel at Buachaille Etive Mòr, one of Scotland’s most photographed mountains.

  • Visit the Glenfinnan Viaduct and catch a glimpse of the Jacobite Steam Train (Hogwarts Express).

  • Hike to Steall Falls in Glen Nevis, a stunning waterfall nestled in a dramatic gorge.

Day 3: The Isle of Skye – A Fairytale Landscape

  • Hike the Old Man of Storr, a striking rock formation featured in The Witcher.

  • Visit Mealt Falls and Kilt Rock, where a waterfall plunges into the sea.

  • Explore the surreal landscapes of The Quiraing.

  • Stop by the historic Sligachan Old Bridge, where legend says its waters grant eternal beauty.

  • Visit Neist Point Lighthouse, offering one of the most dramatic coastal views in Scotland.

  • End the day at the Fairy Pools, a series of crystal-clear cascading waterfalls.

Day 4: The Highlands – Hidden Gems and Breathtaking Scenery

  • Visit the ruins of Ardvreck Castle, a hauntingly beautiful 16th-century structure on Loch Assynt.

  • Relax at Clachtoll Beach, with its turquoise waters and views of Suilven.

  • Hike Stac Pollaidh, a short but rewarding climb with sweeping Highland vistas.

  • Discover Wailing Widow Falls, a hidden waterfall in a stunning valley.

Day 5: Return to Edinburgh – A Perfect Farewell

  • Stroll through Dean Village, a charming riverside neighborhood.

  • Visit the National Museum of Scotland for one last taste of Scottish history and culture.

Where I Stayed